Know what is wrong with your soil

Many of us bring plants from our local Nursery but fail to grow them healthy and bushy as we do not understand what exactly the problem is and what went wrong. Do you ever realize why your plants die after 5 to 6 months? Do you know what is the best potting soil for your plants, seedlings, and succulents? 

If you love gardening and planting various kinds of plants in your lawn or garden, you absolutely must know about the soil that is best for your plants. In this blog, we shall be discussing Clay soil and its properties, why it is important to choose the right potting mixture, and how you can choose it. 

What is Clay Soil? 

Clay soil is the normal nutrient-rich available soil on the grounds that has very fine particles. Nursery people generally grow plants in clay soil due to cost-cutting, but they know how to care for them. We when generally bring these plants to our house, kill them after 5 to 6 months. Do you know why?? Do you know why clay soil is not so good for your plants??

Properties of Clay Soil: 

• Fine particles: Clay soil has very fine particles that stick to each other when given water, which causes suffocation of roots if not properly cared. 
• Drainage: Clay soil does not allow water to pass through easily, due to which water-logging happen and ultimately root rot kill the plants. 
• Soil hardening: When not water continuously the soil becomes very hard like a rock. Plants with tender roots might die in this hard soil. 
• No aeration: Clay soil particles are too fine which does not allow air to pass through and all plants need proper airflow to grow well. 
• Ability to hold salts: Holding nutrients is fine, but holding salts for the long run might kill the plant.

But that does not mean clay soil is bad and we cannot grow plants in it. Clay soil works for some plants but not for all the plants. Proper loamy soil is what needed for plants to grow healthy. 

Best/Universal potting soil for all plants: 

35% Clay Soil + 30% Sand/Cocopeat + 30% Compost + 5% (Leaf Mold/ NeemCake/ Bone meal/ Fertilizer). This potting mixture is suitable for all types of indoor and outdoor plants, but not succulents. This mixture gives a structure to your plants with all qualities like aeration, drainage, nutrients holding and releasing capacity, no soil hardening,  etc.

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What is Cocopeat??

Cocopeat is a natural fiber made out of coconut husks. It is made after a long process of putting coconut husks in water for months, shredding them, and compressing them into bricks that you see in the market. It is a 100% natural and organic growing medium. Loose coco peat is often referred to as Coco soil. 

Properties of Coco soil: 

• Coco soil is a highly porous medium, which allows air to pass through easily and help plants to grow better. But that does not mean it can be used as the sole medium of potting soil as it may not give a proper structure to your plants. It is always recommended to use it with sand and compost. 
• Coco soil is a well-drained medium, absorbs water well, and helps the plant to have strong roots. Due to its water absorption property, one does not have to worry about watering plants daily. 
• Coco soil is light, easy to handle, and can even be reused for up to 4 years. Mostly recommended for terrace gardening. 
• The physical and biochemical properties of Coco soil make it resistant to bacterial and fungal growth. 
• It has a pH of 5.2 to 6.8 which is neutral to slightly acidic. This makes it great to be mixed with alkaline garden soil. 
• Coco soil can store and release nutrients to plants for extended periods of time. 
• Coco soil is available easily online and offline at an affordable price. 

Where to use Coco Soil? 

• Potting mixture with added Coco soil is suitable for indoor plants, cacti and succulents, dish gardens, terrariums, and hanging baskets. But in all the mixture proportion of cocopeat is different.
• Coco soil is a fantastic sowing medium. It is used to sow the seeds of vegetables and seasonal flowers in seedling trays.
• Coco soil is a perfect rooting medium. Stem cuttings are inserted in the Coco soil for root induction.
• Coco soil is very good for soilless gardening and hydroponic farming.

How to make good Coco soil at home? 

• Easy: Buy Coco peat brick online or offline. Place it into a bucket or tub, pour water slowly on the brick. Generally, it absorbs water 4 to5 times its original size. After 3 to 4 hours the entire brick will swell up to 4 times its original size. Drain out the excess water, and you will get ready to use soft, fluffy, and light Coco soil.
• Hard: Take out the coconut husk from coconut, and put it in water for one week. After one week beat the husk a little and cut it into pieces. Take these pieces and grind them in a jar. Remove the extra husk which you are not able to grind (can be used as a base layer when potting plants). The rest portion is your Coco soil. Put it in the Sun for 2 to 3 days before use. 

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Indoor Plant Series Part 3 - All about Money Plant

"Gardening is how I relax. It’s another form of creating and playing with colors." –Oscar de la Rentawn

Money plants (Pothos) are evergreen climbers that can grow up to 20 m high, requiring no extensive care. They are very easy to grow, both in soil and water-filled bottles, jars, and any container. Money plant care is quite easy and needs no expertise. The money plant can be grown as an indoor or outdoor plant without any special care.

About this Plant: Money plant is one such low-maintenance plant whose scientific name is Epipremnum Aureum. From sunlight to water requirement – the money plant is a low maintenance fuss-free plant, but that doesn’t mean, it doesn’t require any care at all. According to the NASA Clean Air Study money plant is listed as one of the top 10 air-filtering plants as it kills the harmful toxins present in the atmosphere. It is also considered a symbol of good luck and prosperity. There is a belief that it brings wealth and abundance to the house, so mostly the householders grow them at home indoors.

Types: Mainly there are two categories, one with green and other with golden leaves.

Height: A well-cared money plant can grow up to a height of 12 feet. If average care is given to this plant, then, also it will reach up to 7 feet in height approximately.

Benefits to keep: One of the most interesting things about money plant is that it is effective in attracting wealth and enhancing good luck. Also, it is a NASA recommended air purifier plant.

Sunlight: It likes bright (indirect) light and suggested to keep indoors, however, thrives in low light as well. Too much sunlight will burn the leaves and too little will end up in wilting of leaves.

Water: Watering a money plant once in 7 or 10 days is perfect for the summer season because the soil also needs to dry up between two watering sessions. But again, the gap cannot extend so long that the soil starts to crack up. Therefore, one can touch the topsoil and feel the dryness and decide when to water again. Under-watering would still be okay, but over-watering can be detrimental to its growth, there shouldn’t be water clogging.

Temperature: Home temperatures between 15°C to 28°C are fine, greater may burn the leaves.

Potting soil: Well-drained soil with a mixture of soil, sand/coco-peat, and compost is what it requires. Sand allows brilliant aeration and drainage to plants and thus the plant will prosper well.

Humidity: Money plant loves humidity. You can mist plant leaves once a week in summer when the air is dry.

Fertilizer: Once a month give them homemade fertilizer of tea leaves/ coffee grounds or eggshells.

Pest Attack: Mostly this plant is pest resistant, but sometimes mealybugs and spider mites might attack, just spray a Dettol diluted solution or Neem oil.

Re-potting: A too big or too small planter can impact the growth of the plant. Generally, a planter the same size as the plant is recommended. If pruned well one needs to re-pot them in a year or so.

Propagation: Money plant is very easy to propagate and can be easily grown from a cutting. It can be grown in both water and soil. Select a healthy branch and make a cut at a 45-degree angle at the bottom of a node (where the leaf emerges) and place it in water or soil. Generally, the roots take 20 to 30 days to come.

Some Common Problems: 

• Root rot: It is the biggest killer, but it can be avoided by watering properly, and not keeping the soil soggy. 
• Drooping of the leaves: If all the leaves are drooping it is a water-related problem, the plant is getting too much water. If only some leaves are drooping, then it is a light related problem, as only some portion of the plant is getting light. 
• Dry Brown tips: Dry air is the cause. Mist of leaves once a week on both sides is good. 
• Spots on leaves: Sometimes you see dark spots or patches on the plant, those are due to fungal infection to plants. 
• Yellow leaves: Hard water, salt accumulation in the plant so the leaves turn yellow. One can use RO water or filtered water. 
• Decreased Variegation of leaves: Lack of sunlight. Transfer in a bit more bright indirect light.

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Indoor Plant Series Part 2 - All about Snake Plant

"The love of gardening is a seed once sown that never dies, but never grows to the enduring happiness that the love of gardening gives." – Gertrude Jekyll

If you think the only type of plant you can keep alive is where you do not have to water for weeks, keep it anywhere, and just forget about even if you have it, Snake Plant is the best choice for you. Yes, you read it right, for this plant "Less is More" and it can adapt to any situation. So the second chapter of Indoor Series is this tough, hard to kill the plant, i.e. Snake Plant. This plant gives a tropical setting to your home and you must have seen this at many places around you, though this is a costly plant to your pocket.

About this Plant: Snake plant has its birthplaces in tropical and sub-tropical regions of Europe, Africa, and Asia with a scientific name Sansevieria trifasciata. It is from the Sanseveria family, though the recent research showed that it is actually from the Dracaena family. It is commonly known as Snake Plant and Mothers In Law's tongue. The plant does not have any outward visible stem, though it has a stem (rhizome) that grows underground and horizontally, which gives birth to new pups (smaller plants). The plant has long, upright, sword-like strappy leaves edged in yellow color or small yellowish-green leaves or green cylindrical leaves in some varieties. It is the most tolerant plants, which do not need much water, light, or fertilizer, on top of that they are pest resistant. They are a relatively slow grower and prefers to be somewhat root-bound. They grow best when cared least and in small pots. They are the best air purifier that NASA recommends that removes many toxins from the air.  They are very easy to care, despite some people face problems, let us talk in detail.

Varieties: There are like 70 varieties of this plant, all native to tropical and sub-tropical regions of Europe, Africa, and Asia. Let us talk about some most common of them in brief: 

• Mother in Law Tongue (Sansevieria trifasciata): This is the most common type of snake plant and one of the most popular types preferred worldwide for the unique blade-shaped leaves and its erect nature. 
• Snake Plant Compacta (Sansevieria trifasciata Compacta): It has unique evergreen foliage with yellow margins. To make sure it stays happy, place it in a spot with bright, indirect light and avoid re-potting it in large pots, as it prefers to live in groups. It is also suitable for both homes and offices. 
• Black Gold Snake Plant (Sansevieria trifasciata Black Gold): Black Gold is one of the best houseplants of all time. It has stiff, upright dark green leaves edged in gold. 
• Cylindrical Snake Plant (Sansevieria Cylindrica): Cylindrical is an interesting variety with round, dark green, striped leaves that grow up out of the pot like pencils and can grow to 2 to 3 feet (61-91 cm.). 
• Golden Bird's Nest (Sansevieria trifasciata Golden Hahnii): It is a dwarf snake plant and one of the most exciting and appealing types of snake plants due to its egg-yolk leaves with a green central stripe.
• Golden Snake Plant (Sansevieria trifasciata Laurentii): It is a variegated snake plant and has creamy yellow leaf margins, and it is originally from Brazil. To propagate this plant, it must be divided rather than propagated from leaf cuttings. 

Height: It generally reaches a height of about 6 inches to 12 feet tall.

Benefits to keep: A NASA recommended plant which removes formaldehyde, benzene, xylene, toluene, nitrogen oxide, etc. from the air. What’s unique about this particular plant is that it’s one of the few plants that can convert carbon dioxide (CO2) into oxygen at night. This quality makes it an ideal plant for bedroom decor as it can help regulate healthy air flow. 

Sunlight: It grows well in the bright spot of your house, but little light works too. More is better, but anything is fine. Always suggested keeping indoors, as intense sunlight might burn the leaves. Expose some natural light once a month to all sides for even growth. If you see some leaves drooping towards one particular direction, then it's a sign that only some portion of the plant is getting the light, so always rotate for overall growth.

Water: Once you water, water it thoroughly and then forget it for a week or more, Yes, this plant is drought loving. The leaves show a sign of curling inwards or yellowish-brown in color if you water too less. Excess watering might rot the roots and drooping of the leaves. Always tries not to water on the main root, always water on the sides. Use a terracotta planter with a good drainage hole, so that the water is evaporated quickly. Every now and again - just whenever you remember - give the leaves a light wipe to keep their pores free of dust. 

Temperature: Home temperatures between 15°C to 28°C are fine, however, they prefer warmer temperatures. Lower temperatures cause them harm. 

Soil: Snake plants prefer a loose, well-drained potting mix to prevent waterlogged roots. It will do better in the sandy soil, so use a mixture of soil and sand.

Fertilizer: One rarely needs to fertilize this plant. So feed with a mild cactus fertilizer during the growing season (summer and spring) diluted to half-strength. Do not fertilize in the winter. One can feed homemade fertilizers (chai Patti) in 2 to 3 months. 

Pest Attack: Mostly this plant is pest resistant, but sometimes mealybugs and spider mites might attack, just spray a Dettol diluted solution or Neem oil. 

Re-potting: Since this plant is a slow grower, it does not require re-potting much, but if you have given it a very bright spot, it will grow rapidly and would need re-potting annually or semi-annually. Re-potting this plant during the growing season (summer or spring) with fresh new soil is good. 

Propagation: This plant is very easy to propagate and can be done in 3 ways mentioned below: 

• Just snip a leaf from the main plant and cut it into 3 to 4-inch pieces and place them about 1 inch deep in the soil. Always makes sure that plant cuttings facing up, the same direction they were growing. Do not water for 2 to 3 days to let callus grow. It will take about 20 to 30 days to get the roots. 
• Similarly, like above, this time puts the leaf cuttings in water, just make sure you change the water every week and do not forget them completely, else they will rot. Be careful you do not put leaves too deep in water to prevent rotting. I love this way as I can see the roots. 
• So we already talked about the internal stem(rhizome) architecture of the snake plant. This internal stem gives birth to new pups every now and then, so one can simply take these pups and propagate them to a new pot. Always take the baby plant with roots, and put it with new potting soil.

Some common problems faced: 

• Root rot: It is the biggest killer, but it can be avoided by watering properly, and not keeping the soil soggy. Watering twice/thrice a month is fine, one can increase this frequency as it always depends on your climate. 
• Drooping of the leaves: If all the leaves are drooping it is a water-related problem, the plant is getting too much water.  If only some leaves are drooping, then it is a light related problem, as only some portion of the plant is getting light. 
• Brown tips: Underwatering is the only cause.
• Curling of the leaves inwards: Underwatering is the only cause.
• Spots on leaves: Sometimes you see dark spots or patches on the plant, those are due to fungal infection to snake plants.

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Indoor Plant Series Part 1- All about Areca Palm

"There are no gardening mistakes, only experiments." – Janet Kilburn Phillips 

There is no gardener who never met situations like yellowish/brown leaves, leaves falling off, no flowering, and even sudden death of the plant. But as they say, it takes years to learn gardening and once you get it, you can't step back. With this we start our Indoor plant series, we will talk about one of our top favorite indoor plants, Areca Palm in this blog. 

About this Plant: Originated in Madagascar with the scientific name as Dypsis lutescens. Majorly known as Areca Palm, also known as Butterfly Palm. People who love bright interiors would definitely love this plant, it creates a tropical setting in a very well lit room. Long, feathery fronds of Areca palm make an attractive corner, that's why you see them everywhere, in houses, offices, shopping malls, and restaurants. They are a relatively slow grower and prefers to be somewhat root-bound. It is fairly easy to take care of this plant, yet sometimes over/under watering, direct/insufficient light, over-fertilizing, low humidity, fluoridated or chlorinated water, pests, or unnecessary re-potting is the fastest ways to kill this plant. 

Height: It generally reaches a height of about 30 feet outdoors and 6-8 feet when grown indoors.

Benefits to keep: It is an air purifier for indoors, non-toxic, and safe for a home with children and pets.

Sunlight: It likes bright (indirect) light and suggested to keep indoors. It needs 2 to 3 hours of direct sunlight every week for its even growth. Too much sunlight may turn the leaves yellowish-green in color. 

Water: It is sensitive to overwatering and generally recommended to water only when the top one-inch soil is dried up. Once you water, water it thoroughly to wet all the roots. Use a planter with a good drainage hole and place a plate at the bottom to remove excess water. Avoid giving tap water if it contains fluoride. Also, do not forget to spray water on the leaves once a week.

Temperature: Home temperatures between 60°F (16°C) to 75°F (24°C) is fine, but sudden temperature drops or cold drafts can lead to brown spots on the leaves.

Soil: It likes good drainage, soil to prevent waterlogged roots. Use a mixture of soil and sand.

Fertilizer: Fertilizing this plant is a little tricky as it does not like many salts in fertilizers. It likes magnesium and iron to prevent yellowing leaves. If you’d like to help your palm grow faster, you can feed it a diluted water-soluble fertilizer monthly during the spring and summer growing season, avoid fertilizing in winters. 

Pest Attack: Whitefly, mealy bugs, scale, red spider mites. Look for these at the base of the leaves, on the stems, and especially under the leaf sheaths between the sheath and the stem; mites will hide on the bottom side of the leaves and produce webs.  Be extra vigilant when scouting for mites, as they can do irreparable harm quickly, often mistaken for dust on the underside of the leaves. If you see either of these, break out the spray bottle with a light soap solution and spray them daily till they’re gone.

Re-potting: It requires re-potting every two or three years. Re-pot in a pot 2-4 inches wider than the current pot. When re-potting - take care not to disturb the plant too much and only sit it as deep as it was previously in the soil.

Propagation: The best way to propagate this plant is by gently dividing clumps when re-potting. Propagation is also done with seeds, but it's time-consuming and quite difficult. 

Some Common Problems: 

• Yellow spots or streaks indicate a lack of potassium or magnesium. 
• Root rot is the biggest killer, but it can be avoided by watering properly, and not keeping the soil soggy. 
• Brown leaf tips may appear if the air is too dry, which also makes this plant more susceptible to pests like spider mites and mealy bugs. 
• Brown leaves are usually a sign of over-fertilizing, dry air, or a lack of water. 
• Spider mites are attracted to dusty leaves, especially in winter when humidity is low, but cleaning palm fronds with mild, soapy water can prevent the problem. 

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Journey of Plant Mom

I was never a gardener or had that passion for plants, in fact, I was the child who always forgets to water her plants. Never knew today I will write blogs on plants. From a newbie to a plant mom, this journey is a ride of mixed emotions. You are happy when you see a fresh flower or leaf and sad when a leaf turns brown or fall off. This journey started 2 years back when we shifted to Pune and saw that the last owner left 7 to 8 pots. We were too lazy to plant them or even discard them so kept them aside. Then one fine day we went to Nursery and bought my first 5 to 6 plants. 

The starting months were fine easy to care and water them, the actual pain started when we went to native and there was no one to water them for a week. We came back to square one, every plant dried up. I gave fresh life to 1 or 2, but others could not revive. That day, I felt like a mom who gets worried about every minor thing happen to her child. Really??, you will get to know once you become a plant mom like me. 

Gardening is an art that requires a lot of patience and analysis. You cannot keep watering daily to all your plants or keep all of them in the Sun. Every plant has its features and needs the right amount of light, water, humidity, temperature, soil, fertilizer, etc. It needs years of experience after growing distinct types of plants, taking care, experimenting, and trying out techniques to bring them to bloom. 

Ever faced a situation, what to do with those brown tips at the end, those soggy roots, the not so flowering plant, and many more. House plants can seem like a mystery if you don’t know how to care for them. So if you have plants who died because of over or under watering, extreme or very low light, or need tips to know the best soil mixture, stay tuned. We will deliver all the plant-related information in our blogs. Our blogs will be all about getting to know your plants so you can bring out their best. 

Here are the first few tips. 

• Do not water daily, water only when the top 1 inch is dry. 
• Not all plants need sunlight, there are plants that need very little light or no light. 
• Never re-pot plants as soon as you bring them from the Nursery. Let them adapt to your house environment. 
• Fertilize them at regular intervals to boost growth. Try out our homemade fertilizer blogs. 
• When re-potting to a bigger pot do not shake the roots much, as it gives the plant a shock and it will die eventually. 
• Water in the morning only.

As a starter, we will introduce 7 most common Indoor Plants and their care tips in coming blogs. Stay connected with us during this quarantine and learn to be a plant mom. 

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Homemade Fertilizer Series Part 4 - Egg Shells

Hi everyone !!

I hope you are liking this series of homemade fertilizers. Comment below if you have tried the first 3. Today we will be discussing the 4th homemade fertilizer, which is from EGG shells!! 

Though I haven't personally tried this fertilizer as we do not consume eggs, but I have researched this and they offer surprising benefits to a wide array of plants. They are organic, natural, and a rich source of calcium which helps plant growth. So this time instead of tossing them to the dustbin, toss them to your garden!! 

Detailed Process: Eggshells can be used in many forms. One could use it as a powder, tea, seed starter, or directly in the compost. Let's discuss each process in detail. 

• Eggshell tea: Rinse the eggshells in warm water, make sure you clean the yolk residue with a finger. Dry them in the sun for a day. Grind them into a fine powder. Take 2 spoons of this powder and mix with 4 liters of water. Boil it for a few minutes, it helps the shells release nutrients faster. Strain the water into a jar and leave it outside for 2 days. Make sure you sealed the jar. Dilute it with water and pour it to your plants. Make sure you give this twice a month to your plants. 
• Eggshell as Seed starters: Crack a raw egg in 3/4 portion and remove the yolk part. Rinse the eggshells in warm water, make sure you clean the yolk residue with a finger. Dry them in the sun for a day. Make a small drainage hole at the bottom using a pin to prevent overwatering. Add some seed starting soil to shell and add 2 to 3 seeds in one shell, make sure you cover the seeds with more soil and sparkle some water. Place the egg in a holder and place it on a sunny windowsill where it won't be disturbed. Transplant the egg shell to new pots as it is when the seedling has 1 to 2 sets of true leaves. 
• Compost: One can toss these eggshells for compost making at home. It helps to speed up the decomposition. 
• Powder eggshell fertilizer: Rinse the eggshells in warm water, make sure you clean the yolk residue with a finger. Dry them in the sun for a day. Grind them into a fine powder. One can use them directly, but crushing helps in the decomposition faster. Store them in a sealed container and sprinkle them whenever you want to add some fertilizer to your plants. Mix crushed eggshells directly into potting soil when re-potting or transplanting plants. One can mix this eggshell powder with tea/coffee grounds or banana peel powder to boost the growth. 
• Snail Repellent: Crushed eggshells can help repel pests naturally in the garden thanks to their sharp edges. Instead of grinding the shells into a fine powder, crush them loosely by hand, leaving the sharp edges intact. Spread the shells on the soil around plants that are being attacked by snails and cutworms to deter these pests.

Benefits: Eggshells are made almost entirely of calcium carbonate crystals. The average eggshell also has other nutrients the soil needs, including phosphorus, magnesium, and traces of sodium, potassium, zinc, manganese, iron, and copper. Since many plants take calcium out of the soil during the growing process, you might want to add some back. Calcium is essential for helping plants absorb nitrogen, which is an essential nutrient for most garden vegetables.

Questions:

1) What should be the quantity and how frequently one should give them to plants?
Ans: 1 spoon for medium-sized plants and 2 spoons for big plants. Frequency should be once a month. 

2) Will increasing the frequency of this fertilizer will enhance growth?
Ans: No, this will ultimately reduce the growth as it will increase the acidity of the soil, which plants might not support and eventually die. 

Thanks for reading!! 
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